Super Easy 3000 Watt DIY Electric Bike Mid Drive CYC X1 Pro Gen 2 Installation

Hey, what’s up everyone? Abbas here from Golden Motor. Today we’re doing another build video where I’m installing the CYC X1 Pro Generation 2 motor on this bike, paired with a 72-volt, 21 amp-hour triangle battery pack. This setup can deliver up to 3,000 watts of power, making it a real beast. The CYC X1 Pro offers options to pair with either the ASI BAC 855 or the BAC 2000 motors. Using the BAC 2000 with a 72-volt battery can push up to 5,000 watts, but I’m going with the 855 today, which still delivers a powerful 3,000 watts and up to 250 Newton-meters of torque.

Like with any mid-drive motor, you need to remove the cranks, pedals, and bottom bracket first. On this bike, those parts are already removed because I had a Bafang installed before and took it out. If you want to see how to do that, we have a complete build video on the Bafang, which I’ll link at the top. After removing those parts, the first step is to thoroughly clean the threads inside the bottom bracket shell to avoid any dirt causing the torque sensor or motor to get stuck during installation.

This motor fits bottom brackets from 68mm to 83mm. Since this bike has a 73mm bottom bracket, the kit includes three spacers—7mm, 3mm, and 5mm—and I need to use the 3mm and 7mm spacers to get a total of 10mm spacing. The bigger spacer goes on the non-drive side because the torque sensing thread is larger on that side. While assembling, make sure the wires aren’t pinched or squeezed.

The torque sensing bracket, which has a wire attached, goes on the non-drive side and turns clockwise. Don’t fully tighten it just yet; tighten it snug enough by hand. Make sure this bracket sits inside the groove on the motor plate and doesn’t rest on it. For the drive side, use the smaller 3mm spacer and tighten the bracket counterclockwise. After installing and tightening both sides snugly, the motor is held in place but not fully secure.

To secure the motor completely, use the included motor mount with long bolts. This mount attaches to the bike frame near the bottom of the motor. The kit also includes rubber pieces to prevent scratching the frame when the motor mount presses against it. I removed the mount preassembled on the motor to show you clearly how to install it. The mount uses two bolts and a “dice” piece that fits onto the frame, holding the mount bolts.

I changed the camera angle for better visibility and installed the mount on the frame using a 3mm hex wrench. The kit also comes with a safety strap to prevent the motor from moving; some frames may only allow use of the strap depending on geometry, but on this bike, both the mount and strap fit well. Once the mount is bolted and the rubber pieces are in place, I tightened everything securely to ensure the motor won’t move.

Next, I installed the controller and its mount. The motor has three-phase wires—red, blue, and yellow—that connect to matching colored wires on the controller. The controller also has two six-pin female plugs: one connects to the motor’s hall sensor, and the other connects to the torque sensor wire coming from the bracket. The wiring harness includes connections for the throttle, display, brake sensor, and gear sensor cutoff. I positioned the controller and tightened it to the mount using supplied bolts and an 8mm wrench.

With the controller mounted, I installed the axle on the drive side, pushing it into place and tapping it gently with a mallet until fully seated. Then I installed the chainring, which uses a narrow-wide tooth pattern to help keep the chain in place. Before inserting the axle, I placed the chain on the chainring and sprocket, making sure everything aligned correctly.

Afterward, I tightened the bottom bracket adapters on both sides using the proper tool, holding the crank on the opposite side to prevent it from turning. I installed the cranks, ensuring the right and left sides were correctly labeled and tightened using the supplied crank bolts and an 8mm hex wrench.

Next, I installed the speed sensor on the non-drive side chainstay, securing it with zip ties. I positioned the sensor close to the spoke magnet without touching it, adjusting it with a small screw. The sensor wire plugs into the matching connector from the controller, which I had previously routed through the frame. Then I mounted the magnet on a spoke and aligned it carefully to trigger the sensor.

I tidied up all the wiring with zip ties and protective sleeves to prevent interference or damage. The final assembly steps included installing the battery pack—this one is a 72V, 21Ah triangle pack with LG cells, capable of delivering 660 amps of continuous power. This pack powers the motor to nearly the full 3,000 watts the system is rated for.

Then, I installed the display on the bike’s center console. The display mounts using three screws—two for the display and one for the keypad, which I placed on the right side near the throttle. Before mounting, I removed the grips and brake levers. The display kit includes grommets to adjust for handlebar thickness if needed, but my bars fit without extra help.

The display model I used is the 750C, compatible with 52 to 72 volts. The wiring harness coming from the controller provides orange for the throttle and green for the display. I plugged in all the wires, secured the display and keypad with screws, and put the throttle on the handlebar, tightening everything in place.

With the display and throttle installed, the cockpit looks neat and functional, with everything reachable. The chain tensioner and chain guard were the last parts to install. The tensioner mounts using a screw and spacer to keep chain slack minimized, while the chain guard mounts with screws and spacers to protect the chain and prevent contact with the frame.

Finally, after zip-tying all the wires for a clean look, the build was complete. The bike is ready for a test ride. Running the motor at nearly 3,000 watts on the fifth pedal assist level, the bike accelerates impressively fast, easily outpacing a companion. A top speed test shows the bike flying down the road, hitting speeds potentially near 50 mph or more. The power and performance difference between the CYC motor and a stock Bafang is significant, though both motors have their place depending on rider needs.